Byzantine and Medieval Gold Jewelry

Antique and Early Byzantine Jewelry continued in the Roman tradition. Christian themes didn't begin to emerge until the 5th and 6th century. The carat system of grading gold originated in Byzantium where their coin, the solidus, was divided into 24 keratia. Antioch and Alexandria were the greatest centers of gold jewelry production until the 6th century when Constantinople overtook them. Gems began to dominate over gold work but niello and pierced work were still very popular. The Byzantines excelled at enamel work as well. This was a period of great wealth. When Emperor Anastasius died in AD 518 he left 320,000 pounds of gold in the treasury. In the 7th and 8th century the jewelers in Constantinople enjoyed great prestige that extended far outside the empire. One of their necklaces has been found in a royal grave in China.

The 1st crusade at the end of the 11th century was at least as much about greed for gold as it was about religion. Early Medieval goldsmiths relied on captured or traded gold because very little gold was produced in Western and Central Europe at the time. In contrast, the Arab world had access to the rich gold resources of Nigeria and the Gold Coast.

After AD 700 the economic strength of Byzantium also drew gold out of Europe. The gold was traded for Byzantine luxury goods like silk, cotton and linen. As a result, silver became the metal of choice for European jewelry and coins. During this period European jewelry styles were also strongly influenced by Byzantium.

In the 14th and 15th centuries, when the invention of the water wheel allowed mining in new areas, new sources of gold were found in Europe and more gold jewelry was manufactured. By the 15th century, standards were set and enforced for gold content in Europe. In England, in 1478 all gold and silver had to be brought to London to be tested and stamped. Inspectors roamed the country for non compliers. Scales had to be tested as well. By the 15th or 16th century, Europeans also had draw plates with levers to pull wire.