Gold Jewelry From Incas to Spain

A lust for gold has been a powerful force shaping human history. Individuals and entire civilizations have staked their lives on the quest to acquire it in larger and larger quantities.

Historically, India was a legendary land of gold. The Moghal court in India was notorious for its lavish display of gem encrusted gold jewelry and ornaments. India was also a major source and trading center for precious stones. Europeans lusted after Indian gold and kept trying to find easier ways to get to it. Columbus was searching for a sea route to India. His first words in the Americas were, "Where is the gold?" However, it was Cortez, who conquered the Incas, that captured tremendous stashes of the precious metal.

The wealth of gold ornaments found in Mexico and South America reflected a long tradition of goldsmithing. For instance, from 200 BC-AD 600 the Nazca people of Peru used repousse, hammered and cut gold, bracelets and nose ornaments. Followed from AD 300-800 by the Mochica who added embossing, soldering, inlaying, plating and casting, including lost wax casting. Motifs included cat-demons, birds, fish, animals, human figures and severed human heads.

In the 16th century, gold from the new world led to a surge in jewelry production in Europe. Spain led the continent into an era of opulent adornment. Goldsmiths in France developed a wonderful technique for painting miniatures in enamel on gold. Cameos came into fashion as well. Competition among the courts of Europe for goldsmiths lead to a uniformity of style as princes vied to outdo each other.