Rare and Precious Gold and Platinum Buying Guide(2)

Platinum: cool, classic, and contemporary

Platinum, which has been used in jewelry since the turn of the century, became especially popular during the Edwardian period because its malleable character made it a natural for the intricate and lacy work style of the day.

Platinum is frequently used in finest jewelry and to set the most valuable gems because it’s more “workable” and easier to move the prongs or setting around the stone, thereby reducing the risk of accidentally damaging it. Long a favorite for classic looks and for the finest diamond settings, platinum is now evolving as the metal of choice for design trends; sleek, bold, contemporary looks for brooches, necklaces, chains, and earrings. Sometimes platinum is alloyed with another metal to create an interesting color, or used alongside gold to create an innovative look.

Nothing is purer than platinum

Platinum is even more rare and valuable than gold. The platinum family is composed of six elements; platinum, palladium, iridium, osmium, rhodium, and ruthenium. These six silvery white metals are generally found together in nature, with platinum and palladium the most abundant, and osmium, rhodium, and ruthenium the rarest.

Platinum is rarest and heavier than other precious metals and as the purest, it’s sometimes referred to as the “noblest.” Most platinum jewelry also contains small amounts of the rarer and more expensive elements iridium or ruthenium for added strength.

Because platinum is so pure, it rarely causes allergic reactions. This is greatly appreciated by those sensitive people who experience reactions to or skin discoloration from jewelry containing base metals. In addition, platinum is somewhat stronger than other precious metals.

Platinum is identified by karat marks. In the United States, the abbreviations PT or plat indicate platinum. In Europe the numerical marks 950 or PT950 indicate platinum. The finest jewelry often uses platinum mixed with 10% iridium or ruthenium for added strength. This cost more since these are rarer and costlier metals.

Rhodium plating

Rhodium, another member of platinum family, is the brightest and most reflective of all the platinum metals. Rhodium is also harder and whiter than platinum and, because it is so durable, doesn’t wear off quickly, as does gold plating. A a result, it is often used to coat gold and platinum jewelry.

Rhodium plating should be considered especially for people who have allergic reactions to 10 KT or 14 KT gold, since it can help eliminate reaction to the alloys.

Yellow gold, white gold, or platinum: Which one?

To decide whether or not you want yellow gold, white gold, or platinum, you must first decide which color metal you prefer. This selection usually depends on personal preference, skin tone, and the color of other jewelry you may own. If your choice is yellow gold, keep in mind that it is available in several different shades, including a pure yellow, a pinkish yellow, and greenish yellow.

If you decide yellow is the color you want, then you must decide whether to get 14 Karat or 18 Karat. Certainly, 14 KT is more affordable than 18 KT; it is also harder. But the yellow won’t be as bright. If you refer a brighter yellow, we recommend that you ask your jeweler for a 14 KT gold with an 18 KT finish, that is, an 18 KT coating over the 14 KT. After several years the finish may wear off, but it can be re-plated foe a minimal charge.

If you prefer a white metal, your choice may be more difficult. Even though white gold and platinum may be similar in appearance, they are very different metals. As we mentioned, platinum is much more expensive, so if you’re on a limited budget, white gold may be the sensible choice. White gold is very hard and very resistant to scratching but exhibit a brownish or yellowish cast which must be covered by rhodium plating. As we mentioned, this plating will eventually wear off, although it can easily be re-plated.

One significant disadvantage of white gold is that it is more brittle than platinum or yellow gold. So if you decide on white gold, be sure to have your jeweler check the setting; especially prongs, at least once a year.
Platinum is somewhat softer and more malleable than white gold, making it an ideal choice for very intricate settings that require intensive labor. It is much easier to use platinum for pave work, that is, designs in which the stones are set as closely together as possible, With platinum, the jeweler can also make a safer setting because a larger prong can be used, since platinum conforms so easily to the shape of the stone, reducing risk of damage. Over time, platinum also holds up better than gold
One disadvantage of platinum is that many jewelers do not have proper equipment to work with it. This, combined with platinum’s cost, results in more limited variety of styles from which to choose. If you like basic classic design, you shouldn’t have a problem finding a setting you like. But if you need custom work to get the look you want, it can add substantially to the cost of the finished piece.

In final analysis, it is up to the individual to weight the relative advantage and disadvantage of gold or platinum. Whichever precious metal you select, there are many beautiful styles and designs from which to choose.